25-28th Jan: South Africa

Left Port Elizabeth behind and drove down to Storms River (where we stayed a night), then to Plettenberg Bay (one night) and thence to Knisna (2 nights - leaving tomorrow). Mostly seeing gorgeous unspoilt scenery, with long sweeping beaches, huge waves and strange shellfish.

South Africa is a strange place - it feels sometimes as if apartheid ended yesterday. The towns on the Garden Route to Cape Town are pleasant, middle-class places; then on the other side of a motorway or railway or river there will be a sprawling shanty town, and there are people selling single bunches of bananas on the side of the motorway. I've never seen such poverty alongside such wealth. South Africa is a fantastic place to live, provided that you are white, wealthy and live somewhere relatively free of crime.

We've also found some of the views of some white South Africans hard to take. My favourite was the safari guide, who said that there was a strike in Port Elizabeth, and that in the old days it was much better because (I quote) "the police would have brought in helicopters and rubber bullets to break it up". What virtually everyone wants is firm, non-corrupt government, but I suspect they also care about the colour of this government. It's certainly the most colour-conscious place I've ever been ("I" being Andy at the moment).

Anyway, so much for politics (although if you have any conscience at all, it's very hard to forget about them here).

Nearly forgot to mention "Monkeyland" and "Birds of Eden". The first is a wood in which monkeys are released from captivity. We saw just about every kind of monkey I've heard of apart from chimps and gorillas, although it would have been better without the wise words of the ponderous ranger accompanying us. "Birds of Eden" is similar - a huge area with high netting on, in which birds could fly freely (albeit for a limited distance).

The photo shows us swimming (Jenny took photo) in the Keurbooms river (we went on a boat trip up this). Beautiful, unspoilt nature reserve - and the water was really warm!

Up to 24th Jan 2009: South Africa

Arrived Johannesburg in am, then flew out a few hours later to Port Elizabeth. Initial shock was that at every car park there is an "attendant" who you pay to guard your car (bit like Liverpool, really). Checked into nice guest house, then had lazy day at beach and having haircut.

On second full day in SA we went on a safari trip: elephants in the morning, then other animals in the afternoon, with a meal in the evening round a fire with lots of strange foods to eat, including kudu (delicious!).

Elephants ... there were a lot of them in the Addo Elephant National Park. They are much wrinklier than we thought they would be close up. The dominant male goes round sticking its trunk in females' barcies (that's a family word which we hope will take off).

As for the afternoon safari - this was in the Schottie private game reserve. What happens is that old cattle farms decide that there is more money to be made from wild animals, and buy in rhinos, lions and the like. They then tour these reserves looking for the animals again. It sounds odd, but it means more animals survive in reasonably natural surroundings, and you certainly get close to them. It does mean that the ranger speaks resentfully of the lions, because they keep eating the other animals. A straw poll at the end revealed that the favourite animal (by 4 votes to 1) was the giraffe. Pictures show Browns with Laura and Will (poor people) in the safari vehicle, and one of said giraffes. It was a fantastic experience, ending at 10.30pm back at the guest house with 5 tired human animals. Was hoping to get girls to write about it, but they're currently chatting to current guest house owners and dogs.

Up to 21st Jan: Singapore

Crossed over the border by taxi from Johor Bahru to Singapore, and found a hotel in Chinatown, then went to Little India to get a henna tattoo (see picture). Singapore was a lot more expensive than Malaysia - UK prices everywhere.

We had the henna tattoos on our arms, and mummy had one on her hand.

We flew out of Singapore at 2.30 am - the trip everyone was dreading! We flew with our favourite airline, Singapore Airlines (see picture also). Very comfy sleeping, and very nice breakfast. I fell asleep in the airport for the last half-hour before boarding, but Joanna and Pippa stayed awake - just - playing their Nintendos.

KL: An Overview

I quite liked Kuala Lumpur; it's not often you feel safe walking around a capital city at midnight as a female. I was really impressed by the Petronus Towers - they are actually quite beautiful ; especially at night. No, I'm not "into" tall buildings, not normally.

The Batu Caves in the north of the city are spectacular. You arrive there after passing miles of skyscrapers and McDonalds and then there are these huge ancient caves (with the obligatory monkeys running wild everywhere) with a gigantic golden statue of a Hindu God at the stairway up to them.

The mix of ancient and modern all over the city is very stark. You wonder how long these ancient Buddhist, Hindu and Chinese temples can last as they are squeezed inbetween all these huge modern shopping malls and office buildings.

We also went up the KL Tower; a telecommunications tower that actually has better views than those of the Pertonus Towers (and less corporate advertising by a certain oil company!).

Sat 17th Jan: A Dedication

We'd like to dedicate our entry today to the fond memory of our friend, Andrew Davies (affectionately known as Big Andy) who sadly died on Saturday very suddenly at the unfairly young age of 44.
We first met big Andy in our shared house days in Hartington Road, Chorlton-cum-Hardy. We had a lot of fun - we were all young, free (of mortgages) and in the throes of meeting the partner a lot of us ended up marrying - I met Andy there, as did Ann and Andy.
There are many, many happy memories from those Chorlton days with Andy. A favourite one of mine is our "Letter B" party where we ended up having a grand old sing-song around the piano with Andy just playing whatever was requested (he was amongst many things, a talented pianist).
To us, Andy was more than a friend - he was one of the many people who helped Wise Owl become what it is today. Andy was always happy to help with any legal questions we threw at him - especially in those early days when we were just getting started.
Our hearts and thoughts go out to Ann and the girls - Millie and Lottie, the rest of his family and indeed, anyone who had the privilege of knowing Andy as a friend. You are all in our thoughts.

Fri 16th Jan: Giant Strawberry - but not inflatable!

Last day in the Cameron Highlands and at last a giant fruit picture! We visited the BOH tea plantations and were able to look around the factory to see how they process the tea once it is picked. Quite interesting, surprisingly. I'm sure you all can't wait to try some of the "Teacino" sachets I am bringing back with us (really, caramel and vanilla flavoured frothy tea!). For me the most amazing thing was to look out and see the whole vista just covered with tea as far as the eye could see.

We then had to brave more mad drivers on the roads down to Kuala Lumpur. Weren't sure if we'd make it that far, but after a delicious (not!) pot noodle in a garage on the outskirts of KL, we booked ourselves into a fairly expensive (but affordable on our budget, just) apartment right in the centre of KL. Didn't realise that it was right next to the Petronus Towers and that it would be probably the most luxurious place we have ever stayed in ever (they had L'Occitane products in the bathroom - for you males out there it is really REALLY expensive French toiletries!).

Never enjoyed doing the laundry as much - the 22nd floor laundrette had the most amazing view of the Petronus Towers lit up at night. They should charge for this stuff (oh just realised they do in the price of the room!).

Clean Browns signing off in KL!

15th-16th: Cameron Highlands

Rented another car from Penang (also a Proton Wira) to drive to the Cameron Highlands (about 4 hours). Apparently you can't rent a car with 3 proper rear seat-belts in Malaysia, so we had a middle lap-belt at the back (and a tatty car, but at least it goes).

Drove nearly 2 hours through beautiful jungle to a "hill-station" - where the British used to retreat to escape the tropical heat. On the way we passed this cement lorry (too much cement, too small an axle it seemed). Unfortunately when you get to the Cameron Highlands, it's full of tatty fruit farms, Malaysian houses and large shops with corrugated iron roofs selling more inflatable strawberries than you could ever wish to buy. The Cameron Highlands are anything but unspoilt. They are, however, just like the UK in some respects: very green, quite cold and with grey skies and mist.

Stayed the night in a posh hotel (still cheap, though) overlooking a golf course, and next to "Ye Olde Smokehouse" - a restaurant-cum-hotel which looks EXACTLY like a Devonshire thatched pub (with Devonshire prices to match). Usual lessons the next morning, with the usual arguments (they're always a stressful time).

This morning (finally up to date) we went to a tea plantation to see the "factory" and have a disappointing cream tea. The plantation was impressive and beautiful - well worth the trip.

We then drove 4 hours to Kuala Lumpur, arriving at 7pm with no idea where we were staying. Had an impromptu meal at a garage (pot noodles and yoghurt; in Malaysia you can make instant pot noodles just like coffee at most garages), then drove into the centre of the city to the apartments where we're now staying. They are seriously posh, with slippers and dressing gowns in the cupboards and a fantastic view over the city from the balcony on the 16th floor.

Perhaps the bizarrest sight so far was at a service station on the drive down to KL (think nasi goreng fried rice rather than KFC and you're close). At the garage they were giving out free teas in a sheltered area, along with inviting passers-by to an impromptu open-air karaoke contest. We couldn't see the point of trying to inspire loyalty at a service station garage.

KL tomorrow!

13th-15th Jan: Penang

Stayed in this amazing hotel on the 24th floor overlooking the sea (although not everything worked in the room - standard for Malaysia apparently). On the 7th floor it had an open air pool complex along the lines of Center Parcs! The infiinity pool went right up to the edge of the 7th floor! You could peer over and see the street below (no danger of falling Mother!).



Very hot (again) so we were on a dead slow pace of visiting one sight per day (the 3 slugs have made a reappearance). Went to a Buddhist temple where the girls were blessed by the monks there - Andy and I were struggling not to laugh but the girls were very good.

Went on a tour of the island by car and visited another temple - this one more Chinese in style. Hate to admit that we also took a trip to Tesco - yes really, there is a Tesco in Penang (in fact there are 3)! Very strange mix of East and West that was (not a muesli bar in sight).

Are now on our way down towards Kuala Lumpur - stopped in at the Cameron Highlands on the way. I'll let Andy tell you about that. Hmmmm! You'll have to wait...

12-13th Jan Sepilok Rainforest

Took Andy to see his family in the jungle (he does have very long arms you know!). Stayed in this lovely forest lodge where they kept giving us rambutans to eat from their garden. Waiting in the rainforest for the orangutans wasn't easy - it was so hot and humid in there. Katy asked me why there was water dripping down my face! The orangutans were amazing. We were very lucky that a large group (including a mother with a tiny baby clinging on to her) came down to feed. They have all been rehabilitated after being rescued from around Malaysia. The feeding platform they come to is the last stage in their rehab - hopefully they return to deep into the jungle and are never seen again.

Also saw lots of macaque monkeys who were pinching the food from the orangutans and then later on raiding the bins outside the cafe. We also saw a wagless pit viper on the jungle boardwalk. We stopped to take a photo - it was so beautifully green - we didn't know at this stage that it was very poisonous!

That night there was a massive storm that raged on throughout the whole night. The thunder and lightning shook the wooden hut that we were staying in! I ended up with 3 girls in bed with me and Andy had to sleep on their mattress on the floor. It was still pouring when we woke up - got soaked just taking the few steps down to breakfast. Fortunately we had a 4WD to take us to the airport - the road from the lodge was heavily flooded and the main roads to the airport also. We had decided to leave early and just wait 4 hours at the airport - good decision as we're not sure we would have gotten through if we'd left much later.

Flew back to Kota Kinabalu where we had a meal and watched some traditional Malaysian dancing before all the power went out. Floods, powercuts... another day in Asia in the monsoon season I guess! Flew up to Penang up nearish to the Thailand border early next day.

The most important thing I forgot to mention

Forgot to mention the most interesting thing about Borneo! Wherever we go, the eyes of all the people - and particularly of girls aged 15-25 - follow Pippa and Katy. Twice now when we've stopped and they've been on their own, we've returned to find them surrounded by 5 or 6 Chinese taking it in turns to take their photos with them (Joanna has run away by this point). It is like travelling with film stars! Very strange. Will try and take a photo of process to put on this entry.

Perth

Not doing very well at keeping this up to date, are we? This is partly because of shaky Internet connections, and partly remembering to do it.

Think we left you, gentle reader, in Sydney - here's a quick summary of the week or so since then.

We flew to Perth - 34 degrees, most of the time - which by my calculations is about 40 degrees hotter than the UK at the same time. This seemed unpleasant, although it's nothing compared to the current 85 degrees in Borneo, because here the humidity is so much worse.

We stayed 5 nights with Sally and Mark - if you're reading this, you two, many thanks once again for your hospitality, and I hope you don't mind this photo being posted on the private blog site, Sally. Never mind "Glossop by Night" - what about Atwell? We were treated to a barbecue, went to the beach, snorkelled on Rottnest Island, caught little crayfish in the lake, and generally relaxed and had a good time. The girls have been allowed to skim over these 5 days in their diaries, so I think we should too.

Then flew to Borneo, via a few hours in Singapore (where Jenny had the natural colour restored to her hair in the airport hairdressers). Got to Borneo where we were the last people leaving the airport - a surreal experience. Someone from the hotel had been waiting 4 hours to meet us, which we weren't expecting (and was a very pleasant surprise).

Have stayed 3 nights so far in the Lembah Impian Country Resort: nice hotel with swimming pool. On the first night there were intermittent power cuts throughout the night, which meant no fan and no air-conditioning ==> unbearable. When this started happening on the second night, we complained and were moved to the main building where there was full power. This happened when Jenny and the girls were fast asleep, so we had to move all our stuff and 3 sleeping girls by the light of this laptop's screen, which was fun!

Borneo is hot and humid, and halfway between the first and third world. We went on a boat trip to a tiny island nature reserve today, and Joanna and I went snorkelling and saw beautiful fish. If this is how Borneans treat their nature reserves, I wouldn't like to see the normal places: litter everywhere.

Jenny had her birthday meal here in the hotel, and the management gave her a cake on the house. Otherwise it's been a quiet birthday, but at least it's a change from Glossop!

Not sure what we're doing tomorrow, but on Monday we get up early to fly to Sepilok to see the orang-utans - expect lots of photos on Tue/Wed!

Happy New Year

Lots has happened since Koala Day!

On Sunday 28th we went surfing again on Flynn's Bay beach, just opposite the resort we were staying in - we'd bought the girls lilo-type body boards, and they loved swimming in the surf (it was especially hard to get Joanna out of the water). We tried playing tennis in the afternoon - not a great success - then went out for a meal in the evening. I think everyone felt that we were leaving Port Macquarie too early the next day.

The drive down from Port M to Sydney took an astonishing 4 and a half hours, all for a tiny hairbreadth of Australia's eastern coastline - it really is an inconceivably big country. Nothing happened of interest except for a break stop in Mosseret - think that was the name - where we were trapped in the car by an incredible storm. It started raining when Jenny and I were about 5 seconds from the car, and we were both soaked by the time we got in. The lightning, torrential rain and thunder were impressive, but the hailstones were something else. Trying hard not to exaggerate, the biggest were about the size of tiny button sprouts. So imagine being trapped in a car park with the water level rising around you, having someone hurling frozen baby sprouts at the car from above, and you've just about got it. Pippa wasn't too keen on the storm - we kept wondering if her Nanny would have enjoyed it!

The apartment in Sydney seemed superficially really nice, although we soon discovered lots of things weren't working (showering in the dark with half the door missing has been a highlight). Still, the location has been excellent - a few km from the city centre. On the first evening we went down to Circular Quay and took a ferry across the harbour and back. Watching the sun set over Sydney Harbour and the lights come on, with the harbour bridge and Opera House as a backdrop, I kept thinking that this was about as good as it gets (so good, in fact, that we did the same thing the next night, although in the other direction).

On the Tuesday Jenny took the girls to a museum and various other activities while I worked, then in the afternoon we met up at Circular Quay and watched a street performer squeeze herself into a small glass box (she spent about 45 minutes building up to this): it was uncomfortable to watch, and almost impossible to believe if you weren't actually seeing it in front of your eyes. The girls had also just watched a unicyclist doing his stuff (unicycling, presumably) before I got there.

Wednesday was New Year's Eve, and probably the most memorable day of our trip so far. We'd decided to watch the fireworks from Mrs. Macquarie's Point, a spit of land sticking out into Sydney Harbour. Lots of official observation areas like this are dotted round Sydney, each having a pre-set capacity (ours was 20,000 people). Once the area is at capacity, no one can leave and no one can come in. In total I gather about 1.5 million people watched the fireworks that night.

We got to (or rather, towards) the park at about 10am, and saw a crowd of people milling round. This turned out to be the end of the longest queue of people I've ever seen. It snaked down and round and back and through and along a park in bright sunshine (the forecast was about 85 degrees, and I can believe it reached this). The best way I can describe the queue is to say that one energetic person kept trying to get a Mexican wave going, and eventually succeeded, and it took about two minutes to reach the end of the queue (or at least, as far as we could see). While Jenny and I took it in turns to queue up in the sun (and battle queue-jumpers), the girls sat in the shade. We reached the front of the queue at 2.30pm. At that point they'd let in about 7,000 people, and there were (they said) about 10,000 people in the queue behind us, which by then stretched out of the park onto the road.

Once we got in, we had 6 and a half hours to kill before the family fireworks and 9 and a half before the final ones. We found some shade to lie in (along with 19,995 other people in the end), and managed to while away a few hours reading, playing Nintendos, going for walks, swimming in the harbour (well, I did) and getting something to eat. About 7pm we went to the end of the point, and luckily managed to squeeze in next to 2 French girls, one of whom proved to be one of life's most annoying people. She chain-smoked, kept giving huge Gallic sighs, kept singing happy birthday drunkenly to a friend all night, and when the fireworks finally happened leapt up to block people's views. Even her friends were close to disowning her by the end.

The family fireworks at 9 were OK - by some way the best fireworks we'd ever seen, but I think Jenny and I were both a bit disappointed. There was then a procession of boats along the harbour, each having coloured lights on the side. Jenny then took the girls away to the toilet through the tightly-packed, drunk crowd, in the dark, while I watched the security guards and (occasionally) police battle to keep people out of our small, enclosed bit at the end of the park. When Jenny got back (about 11pm) the security guards wouldn't let her back in, and I had just packed all our stuff up to move out when they relented and we could all squeeze back onto our little sloping foothold on the damp grass, sandwiched between drunken French singing Happy Birthday. At this point Pippa and Katy were in floods of tears!

And then the fireworks started. If ever you go to Sydney for new year, know that the family fireworks at 9pm are a pale imitation of the real thing. 12 minutes of oohs and aahs, with the trademark effects on the Harbour Bridge (half of which we could see), and a final minute which took the breath away. I remember watching the whole thing with a smile on my face. If you have a fast broadband connection you can see a video of the fireworks at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfTBG3htPIc&feature=related (among other sites), and we'll try to remember to add a video Jenny took some time. Some readers may know that Pippa has always been terrified of fireworks (most recently the box of Standard fireworks in Pete and Lesley's back garden), so we were a bit apprehensive about the night. At the end we asked Pippa if she'd enjoyed it, and in typically infuriating fashion said "Of course", as if to say, why wouldn't I?

We then started the trek back out of the park to find a bus - imagine a leaving a crowded football stadium by a single exit at the end of a game after your team have won, but when the floodlights have failed, it's dark, everyone's drunk and there are strange things underfoot that you keep having to walk over, and you've just about got the right impression. Everyone eventually got to sleep at about 2.30 in the morning.

And I would just like to add one more thing about the day: the girls stayed awake the whole time, barely grumbled and as far as I can tell enjoyed virtually the whole experience. We were VERY proud of them.

Sorry about the long post - just mention today. We went by car to the famous Bondi Beach (which was packed), then to a slightly less crowded beach for lunch, then finally to a beach Jenny used to go to when she was in Sydney, where we stayed the rest of the day. On the way back Jenny took us to the school she used to teach at ... but she can write about that. It's now midnight, and time for bed. Perth tomorrow! Thanks for reading this far.