15th-16th: Cameron Highlands

Rented another car from Penang (also a Proton Wira) to drive to the Cameron Highlands (about 4 hours). Apparently you can't rent a car with 3 proper rear seat-belts in Malaysia, so we had a middle lap-belt at the back (and a tatty car, but at least it goes).

Drove nearly 2 hours through beautiful jungle to a "hill-station" - where the British used to retreat to escape the tropical heat. On the way we passed this cement lorry (too much cement, too small an axle it seemed). Unfortunately when you get to the Cameron Highlands, it's full of tatty fruit farms, Malaysian houses and large shops with corrugated iron roofs selling more inflatable strawberries than you could ever wish to buy. The Cameron Highlands are anything but unspoilt. They are, however, just like the UK in some respects: very green, quite cold and with grey skies and mist.

Stayed the night in a posh hotel (still cheap, though) overlooking a golf course, and next to "Ye Olde Smokehouse" - a restaurant-cum-hotel which looks EXACTLY like a Devonshire thatched pub (with Devonshire prices to match). Usual lessons the next morning, with the usual arguments (they're always a stressful time).

This morning (finally up to date) we went to a tea plantation to see the "factory" and have a disappointing cream tea. The plantation was impressive and beautiful - well worth the trip.

We then drove 4 hours to Kuala Lumpur, arriving at 7pm with no idea where we were staying. Had an impromptu meal at a garage (pot noodles and yoghurt; in Malaysia you can make instant pot noodles just like coffee at most garages), then drove into the centre of the city to the apartments where we're now staying. They are seriously posh, with slippers and dressing gowns in the cupboards and a fantastic view over the city from the balcony on the 16th floor.

Perhaps the bizarrest sight so far was at a service station on the drive down to KL (think nasi goreng fried rice rather than KFC and you're close). At the garage they were giving out free teas in a sheltered area, along with inviting passers-by to an impromptu open-air karaoke contest. We couldn't see the point of trying to inspire loyalty at a service station garage.

KL tomorrow!