25-28th Jan: South Africa

Left Port Elizabeth behind and drove down to Storms River (where we stayed a night), then to Plettenberg Bay (one night) and thence to Knisna (2 nights - leaving tomorrow). Mostly seeing gorgeous unspoilt scenery, with long sweeping beaches, huge waves and strange shellfish.

South Africa is a strange place - it feels sometimes as if apartheid ended yesterday. The towns on the Garden Route to Cape Town are pleasant, middle-class places; then on the other side of a motorway or railway or river there will be a sprawling shanty town, and there are people selling single bunches of bananas on the side of the motorway. I've never seen such poverty alongside such wealth. South Africa is a fantastic place to live, provided that you are white, wealthy and live somewhere relatively free of crime.

We've also found some of the views of some white South Africans hard to take. My favourite was the safari guide, who said that there was a strike in Port Elizabeth, and that in the old days it was much better because (I quote) "the police would have brought in helicopters and rubber bullets to break it up". What virtually everyone wants is firm, non-corrupt government, but I suspect they also care about the colour of this government. It's certainly the most colour-conscious place I've ever been ("I" being Andy at the moment).

Anyway, so much for politics (although if you have any conscience at all, it's very hard to forget about them here).

Nearly forgot to mention "Monkeyland" and "Birds of Eden". The first is a wood in which monkeys are released from captivity. We saw just about every kind of monkey I've heard of apart from chimps and gorillas, although it would have been better without the wise words of the ponderous ranger accompanying us. "Birds of Eden" is similar - a huge area with high netting on, in which birds could fly freely (albeit for a limited distance).

The photo shows us swimming (Jenny took photo) in the Keurbooms river (we went on a boat trip up this). Beautiful, unspoilt nature reserve - and the water was really warm!

Up to 24th Jan 2009: South Africa

Arrived Johannesburg in am, then flew out a few hours later to Port Elizabeth. Initial shock was that at every car park there is an "attendant" who you pay to guard your car (bit like Liverpool, really). Checked into nice guest house, then had lazy day at beach and having haircut.

On second full day in SA we went on a safari trip: elephants in the morning, then other animals in the afternoon, with a meal in the evening round a fire with lots of strange foods to eat, including kudu (delicious!).

Elephants ... there were a lot of them in the Addo Elephant National Park. They are much wrinklier than we thought they would be close up. The dominant male goes round sticking its trunk in females' barcies (that's a family word which we hope will take off).

As for the afternoon safari - this was in the Schottie private game reserve. What happens is that old cattle farms decide that there is more money to be made from wild animals, and buy in rhinos, lions and the like. They then tour these reserves looking for the animals again. It sounds odd, but it means more animals survive in reasonably natural surroundings, and you certainly get close to them. It does mean that the ranger speaks resentfully of the lions, because they keep eating the other animals. A straw poll at the end revealed that the favourite animal (by 4 votes to 1) was the giraffe. Pictures show Browns with Laura and Will (poor people) in the safari vehicle, and one of said giraffes. It was a fantastic experience, ending at 10.30pm back at the guest house with 5 tired human animals. Was hoping to get girls to write about it, but they're currently chatting to current guest house owners and dogs.

Up to 21st Jan: Singapore

Crossed over the border by taxi from Johor Bahru to Singapore, and found a hotel in Chinatown, then went to Little India to get a henna tattoo (see picture). Singapore was a lot more expensive than Malaysia - UK prices everywhere.

We had the henna tattoos on our arms, and mummy had one on her hand.

We flew out of Singapore at 2.30 am - the trip everyone was dreading! We flew with our favourite airline, Singapore Airlines (see picture also). Very comfy sleeping, and very nice breakfast. I fell asleep in the airport for the last half-hour before boarding, but Joanna and Pippa stayed awake - just - playing their Nintendos.

KL: An Overview

I quite liked Kuala Lumpur; it's not often you feel safe walking around a capital city at midnight as a female. I was really impressed by the Petronus Towers - they are actually quite beautiful ; especially at night. No, I'm not "into" tall buildings, not normally.

The Batu Caves in the north of the city are spectacular. You arrive there after passing miles of skyscrapers and McDonalds and then there are these huge ancient caves (with the obligatory monkeys running wild everywhere) with a gigantic golden statue of a Hindu God at the stairway up to them.

The mix of ancient and modern all over the city is very stark. You wonder how long these ancient Buddhist, Hindu and Chinese temples can last as they are squeezed inbetween all these huge modern shopping malls and office buildings.

We also went up the KL Tower; a telecommunications tower that actually has better views than those of the Pertonus Towers (and less corporate advertising by a certain oil company!).

Sat 17th Jan: A Dedication

We'd like to dedicate our entry today to the fond memory of our friend, Andrew Davies (affectionately known as Big Andy) who sadly died on Saturday very suddenly at the unfairly young age of 44.
We first met big Andy in our shared house days in Hartington Road, Chorlton-cum-Hardy. We had a lot of fun - we were all young, free (of mortgages) and in the throes of meeting the partner a lot of us ended up marrying - I met Andy there, as did Ann and Andy.
There are many, many happy memories from those Chorlton days with Andy. A favourite one of mine is our "Letter B" party where we ended up having a grand old sing-song around the piano with Andy just playing whatever was requested (he was amongst many things, a talented pianist).
To us, Andy was more than a friend - he was one of the many people who helped Wise Owl become what it is today. Andy was always happy to help with any legal questions we threw at him - especially in those early days when we were just getting started.
Our hearts and thoughts go out to Ann and the girls - Millie and Lottie, the rest of his family and indeed, anyone who had the privilege of knowing Andy as a friend. You are all in our thoughts.

Fri 16th Jan: Giant Strawberry - but not inflatable!

Last day in the Cameron Highlands and at last a giant fruit picture! We visited the BOH tea plantations and were able to look around the factory to see how they process the tea once it is picked. Quite interesting, surprisingly. I'm sure you all can't wait to try some of the "Teacino" sachets I am bringing back with us (really, caramel and vanilla flavoured frothy tea!). For me the most amazing thing was to look out and see the whole vista just covered with tea as far as the eye could see.

We then had to brave more mad drivers on the roads down to Kuala Lumpur. Weren't sure if we'd make it that far, but after a delicious (not!) pot noodle in a garage on the outskirts of KL, we booked ourselves into a fairly expensive (but affordable on our budget, just) apartment right in the centre of KL. Didn't realise that it was right next to the Petronus Towers and that it would be probably the most luxurious place we have ever stayed in ever (they had L'Occitane products in the bathroom - for you males out there it is really REALLY expensive French toiletries!).

Never enjoyed doing the laundry as much - the 22nd floor laundrette had the most amazing view of the Petronus Towers lit up at night. They should charge for this stuff (oh just realised they do in the price of the room!).

Clean Browns signing off in KL!

15th-16th: Cameron Highlands

Rented another car from Penang (also a Proton Wira) to drive to the Cameron Highlands (about 4 hours). Apparently you can't rent a car with 3 proper rear seat-belts in Malaysia, so we had a middle lap-belt at the back (and a tatty car, but at least it goes).

Drove nearly 2 hours through beautiful jungle to a "hill-station" - where the British used to retreat to escape the tropical heat. On the way we passed this cement lorry (too much cement, too small an axle it seemed). Unfortunately when you get to the Cameron Highlands, it's full of tatty fruit farms, Malaysian houses and large shops with corrugated iron roofs selling more inflatable strawberries than you could ever wish to buy. The Cameron Highlands are anything but unspoilt. They are, however, just like the UK in some respects: very green, quite cold and with grey skies and mist.

Stayed the night in a posh hotel (still cheap, though) overlooking a golf course, and next to "Ye Olde Smokehouse" - a restaurant-cum-hotel which looks EXACTLY like a Devonshire thatched pub (with Devonshire prices to match). Usual lessons the next morning, with the usual arguments (they're always a stressful time).

This morning (finally up to date) we went to a tea plantation to see the "factory" and have a disappointing cream tea. The plantation was impressive and beautiful - well worth the trip.

We then drove 4 hours to Kuala Lumpur, arriving at 7pm with no idea where we were staying. Had an impromptu meal at a garage (pot noodles and yoghurt; in Malaysia you can make instant pot noodles just like coffee at most garages), then drove into the centre of the city to the apartments where we're now staying. They are seriously posh, with slippers and dressing gowns in the cupboards and a fantastic view over the city from the balcony on the 16th floor.

Perhaps the bizarrest sight so far was at a service station on the drive down to KL (think nasi goreng fried rice rather than KFC and you're close). At the garage they were giving out free teas in a sheltered area, along with inviting passers-by to an impromptu open-air karaoke contest. We couldn't see the point of trying to inspire loyalty at a service station garage.

KL tomorrow!